Would I be able to hit blades? Would the transition from GI irons and blades be difficult?

Question

I have a set of Adams ovation. They are game improvement irons to the fullest. I got them used for 55 bucks when I was 12. I'm 15 now, I'm a 4 handicap, a pretty good ball striker, and I would love to get some blades. I'm a lefty though, and blades are very hard to find. With my Adams clubs I hit this huge ballooning hook. It's really damn annoying, too. I want to get some blades fitted for me. My fear, though, is that when tournaments start I'll still be trying to go through a transition period and look like a huge poser hahaha. What do you think? Whats the difference between hitting GI irons and blades?

Answer 1

No. If your swing is sound and you've been properly fitted you can hit any style of club you want. I've found that the whole "player's need blades, hackers need cavity-backs" thing to be bumpkiss. Play whatever makes you happy.



The only thing to be wary of is the lofts. Most blade irons are ~2* weaker (on average, there is no real industry-wide standard to what a 6i's, or any other club's- loft should be) than those of cavity backs. So, a GI 6i may have a loft of 29*, while a blade will be 31*. With everything- your swing, the shaft, grip, etc.- being equal, you'll hit the blade about 6y shorter. The reason, if you're wondering, is because the stronger lofts of the GI irons will make people feel as if they're hitting the ball farther.

Answer 2

The difference is(to borrow a phrase from O.D.B.) a whole bloodclot lot. The sweet spot on your Ovation irons is much bigger than the sweet spot on a blade iron The sweet spot on a blade is the size of a dime. You may find yourself losing distance with the switch unless you hit them perfectly. In my experience, I actually used blades when I had a higher handicap than I have now. It helped me become a better ball striker. I play the Nike VR Split Cavity now. I like the forgiveness they provide, but has the blade look at address. If you have a golf store in your town, they should have lefty blades in the store. If not, your local golf club/driving range should have a demo day in a few months and you can try out all kinds of irons then. If you play to your stated handicap, you're an excellent ball striker so you should be able to hit blades.

Answer 3

handicap 4 sounds serious to me. I would try out some blades before buying one. most places have test 6 irons I bought a demo club for $10 almost new and found I didn't like it I hit them for some time on the range and on the course. You should have the skill for the blades, You will be more in control its not as forgiving so keep that in mind.

Answer 4

Nothing really it's the best move you could ever make go for it just get the right shaft combo and you will be fine.



Here is the truth in regards to Jim's answers. Blades equal accuracy even on mishits. Cavity are all over the place on mishits inconsistent distance sometimes they work other times they don't. truth is there are some good cavity backs such as ping,callaway,bridgestone. It's not about ego it's about performance a clubface is a clubface get the one that equals accuracy not distance. That's why all the best players have and are still current;y playing blades.

Answer 5

There is a huge range of clubs from super game improvement to blades. Blades are smaller on every axis than perimeter weighted. And remember, nearly every PGA player is using some non-blade perimeter weighted clubs, and some have NO blades in their bags.



To make your decision, first, buy some impact stickers. Find out if you are making consistent center impact. If you have a small impact area, you should be good to go. If you don't have impact stickers, substitute electrical tape. After 25 impacts look at your impact location. The size of a dime or a quarter? If it's a quarter stay with GI to some extent. Most manufacturers have at least five levels of clubs. Super game improvement have 2 inch wide soldes, blades have 1/4 inch wide soles.



All blades have the sweet spot closer to the hosel than on perimeter weighter irons. You'll have to make a setup adjustment to make impact there.



Blades will produce a bone jarring vibration into your arms on toe hits, much less on hosel hits. You'll also get a big vibration feedback on bladed shots and high on the clubface. Sweet spot hits will feel like your GI irons.



GI irons are cast stainless, not surgical stainless, but they don't rust easily. On blades, they are made of ferrous iron and rust badly once the chrome finish deteriorates. You need to carry a wet towel and clean the face after every swing.



If you type in "what's in my bag" or "the bag" on Google image, you'll see that the irons in many pros' bags (including Tiger Woods) look like garage sale rejects, due to rusting.



Blades deteriorate much, much more rapidly than cast stainless. A 20 year old stainless can be buffed back to new condition. Whereas a two year old set of blades can look very undesirable.



If you buy blades used, you'll probably see deterioration on the mid and short irons, especially the SW and PW. While you're getting used to ay baldes, just put electrical tape on the faces to preserve the groove edges and chrome finish.



Blades are a lot more expensive. My Mizuno JPX 800s, including bag and TM R11, cost over $2,000. Cast stainless is a lot less expensive. But, used blades, even in good condition, usually can be had for $300 to $450. But that shows you the depreciation you'll suffer if you buy the wrong set of blades and want to trade them in on another set.



Go to the PGA web site to see the price of used clubs. Edwin Watts and other purely golf retailers sell used clubs and give a playing satisfaction guarantee. If you aren't happy after 10 days, they'll give you your money or another set of clubs.

Answer 6

The easiest way to learn golf like a pro is by following "The Simple Golf Swing" program. It's primarily a 31 page eBook that teaches golfers how to make solid contact with the ball, how to avoid hitting fat, how to avoid slicing, how get more power, accuracy, and consistency in your swing. Consistency being the number 1 golf skill.



You not only get the eBook though, you also receive a ton of extra material including video, lessons on putting, driving, chipping, sand play etc. Here is their official site: http://www.golfswingguru.net

Answer 7

Blades aren't complicated to hit, they only have very small candy spots, that means pass over hits are extra reported. You get a lot larger manage with a blade, extra spin onto the vegetables, however you lose distance, approximately one membership's valued at.

Answer 8

Blades are usually not intricate to hit, they only have very small candy spots, that means pass over hits are extra suggested. You get significantly better manage with a blade, extra spin onto the veggies, however you lose distance, about one club's valued at.

Answer 9

I like my new Titleist MB's. I bought them so that if I was going to shank it all over the course, then I wanted to do it with the best looking clubs there are.

I also had Tommy Armour 986 tour irons and wore out the grooves.

You will do just fine with blades plus you can bend them to suit .

Answer 10

If you are 15 and your HCP is so low, you are natural and you should not have any fear to try blades.



BUT, if this is not entirely true... Focus on your score reached at proper golf course - the really tough one. Then you realize that your HCP is probably 25 and you have lot to learn.

Answer 11

Study up on this. Read articles, test clubs and ask people questions.It took me almost a year before I purchaseded my last set of irons. But when I did, I was confident that it was the right decision and never looked back in wonder.

Answer 12

anyone that wants to score their best and uses blades instead of more forgiving club designs is stupid.



i.e. - don't be stupid.



get your ego out of the way. are you perfect? no? then use forgiving clubs, pretty simple.



setup objective tests for using both types - your answer will be clear.